↳ 26th Annual AVA Rally Estes Park Co. Whilst grabbing the fork, slowly slide the stem off the steerer tube and let it hang down Take off the tube spacers under the stem, then slide up the top plate of the headset before removing the spacer, compression ring, washer, and top bearing race.↳ 30th Annual AVA Rally Summersville WV.↳ Our Annual AVA Rally North Conway, NH.↳ 31st Annual AVA Rally Springfield, MO.Past Rallies and Next Rally-Next Rally Is In : Shelburne, NH.Does that mean I have to continually keep putting air into the system? Question though, looking at it, it looks to me as if the only thing keep air from leaking out around the collar is dirt. It's just that I got the impression they had to be removed to get the collar off of the top of the forks. Oh I got it, and it's already getting rebuilt. the o-rings can be stubborn when dried out. Oh its still an issue, those same ring-clips still need to come off in order for the tube to pass thru the lower clamps. Then I just said, "Screw it, if I break the collar I'll just replace it." So I tugged up on the collar without restraint and finally got it to move up so I could expose the c-clip.Sum'beach :-)! I finally replaced my telescoping mirror and used that to finally look underneath the collar. Meaning, it shouldn't have even been an issue so long as I was pulling the forks out from the bottom. Looking at it, it looks as though the c-clip was only preventing the air-collar from sliding down while the fork and everything is installed. However, after looking at everything separated from each other it all looks pointless. Then I just said, "Screw it, if I break the collar I'll just replace it." So I tugged up on the collar without restraint and finally got it to move up so I could expose the c-clip.Sum'bitch! Well, let's just say not being afraid and having the right tool made all the difference. So today I pretty much said eff it, I am going to make headway damnit! You should be able to pop them off with your fingers they are vary light c clips, wrap your hand around the tube find the ends and pull on them Well I have no choice since I at least moved the air collars up enough to feel the c-clip, but there is still no protrusion that I can see that would allow me to use a tool for removal. The XII is a very easy M/C to work on after you get to know it. A little lube on the shock collars and a little tap on the top of them with some turning they should come out fairly easy, but to get a better picture of how it all goes together and everthing works you can take the front faring off and it will give you quite a bit of experience on how to work on it in the future. I do it by removing right front turn signal lite. Again patience, if you get stressed walk away for a bit.ĭoug of so fla wrote:You do not have to remove any body panels to take off forks or speedo cable if you do not want to, other than remove headlite ring & headlite, to make it easier to get upper cable connection undone. If they are that tight, take the top tree off, and using a small peice of wood, even a paint stirring stick just tap them up just enought to get them moving. There is a chamfer on the bore of the crossover tubes and the clips will land up into that chamfer making them difficult to see. Patience is required, and if the front end has seen a hard life and the pinch bolts not properly torqued, the forks will get pounded up and those clips will begin to also get pounded up into the crossover tubes. That small pipe that connects both of them can be damaged Dont twist the tube unless your holding firm on the crossover. be careful twisting the fork tube, as the crossover pipe can be damaged real easy. with all the pinch bolts loose and if needed remove the top tree, spray it down with some light bolt ease, WD-40 whatever. GEN.Sounds like your needing to walk away from it for a nice Easter Diner and a day off.Īs Doug of FL said they may be gummed up from dirt and whatever.
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